Everything you need to know about Japanese Selvedge Denim

Selvedge denim has gained popularity in the fashion world in recent years, which is no surprise. With its artisanal manufacturing process, excellent quality and timeless appeal, selvedge denim has become a favourite among denim lovers. But there is one type of selvedge denim that really stands out from the rest: Japanese selvedge denim. At Vousten Mode, you will find Japanese selvedge denim in the extensive Jacob Cohën range. In this blog, we dive deeper into the world of Japanese selvedge denim and discover why this is such a special product.

What is Selvedge Denim?

Let's start with the basic concept. Selvedge (derived from ‘self-edge’) refers to the selvedge of denim fabric that is finished so that the edge does not fray. This is usually done on old-fashioned shuttle-weaving machines that allow for a firmer and tighter weave. The edge of the fabric is sealed with a distinctive stripe (usually red), indicating the quality of the denim.

The production of selvedge denim is more labour-intensive and slower than mass production with modern machines. The result? A more durable and beautiful fabric that only gets better over time. This careful production makes each piece of selvedge denim unique, which is exactly what appeals to denim lovers.

The Making of Selvedge Denim

The production of selvedge denim is thus distinguished by the use of traditional shuttle-weaving machines, which work at a slower and more careful pace than modern machines. This type of loom, common in the early 20th century, weaves the fabric on narrow rolls about 70 to 80 cm wide. The difference with modern, wider machines is that they often use faster production methods, where the fabric is cut after weaving, leaving an unfinished edge. Because selvedge denim is woven more slowly, it creates a thicker, denser fabric that is not only more durable, but also has more texture and character. This artisanal approach is what makes selvedge denim so special and sought-after by lovers of high-quality jeans. A tip: roll up the trouser legs slightly to show that distinctive selvedge edge. It's a subtle yet stylish way to show off the quality of your jeans.

Why Japanese Selvedge Denim?

Japan is known for its dedication to craftsmanship and attention to detail, and this is evident in their denim production. Japanese selvedge denim is often considered the best in the world because of the precision and care put into the production process. Here are some reasons why Japanese selvedge denim is in a class of its own:

1. Craft weaving
In the 1950s and 1960s, Japanese weavers imported old shuttle-weaving machines from the US and started producing their own denim. While the US industry switched to faster, modern production methods, Japan stuck to traditional manufacturing techniques. As a result, Japanese denim stays true to the authentic method of weaving, which makes for a sturdier, more durable and beautiful final product.

2. High-quality Cotton
The quality of cotton used in Japanese denim is second to none. Many Japanese producers use long-fibre cotton, such as Zimbabwe or Egyptian cotton, which is stronger and softer than other cotton varieties. This makes for a luxurious feel on the skin and a denim fabric that adapts perfectly to the shapes of your body over time.

3. Indigo Dyeing Technique
The traditional way of dyeing denim with indigo is often done in Japan with natural indigo instead of the chemical variant common elsewhere. This gives the jeans a deeper, richer colour that fades beautifully the more you wear them. The ‘fades’ or scuffs that appear over time are considered works of art by denim lovers as they are unique to each wearer.

4. Eco-friendly Production
Another big advantage of Japanese selvedge denim is its focus on sustainability. Many Japanese denim manufacturers have embraced eco-friendly production processes. They use less water, work with natural dyes and ensure that their products last a long time, contributing to responsible fashion choices.

Selvedge Denim by Jacob Cohën

All of Jacob Cohën's Limited Edition Jeans are selvedge jeans, recognisable by the kermarked selvedge edge. Some of these fabrics are produced in Italy and some are sourced from the best manufacturers in Japan. A label is stitched on the inside of the selvedge jeans to indicate whether they are Italian or Japanese denim.

Japanese Selvedge Denim in your wardrobe

At Vousten Mode, we think it's important that your clothes last and reflect your personal style. That is why we select the finest Japanese selvedge denim from the Jacob Cohën collections. These jeans are not only an investment in quality and durability, but also in a piece that gets more and more beautiful with time.

Are you ready to make an authentic, durable and stylish addition to your wardrobe? Then check out our selection of Japanese selvedge denim in our shop or online and discover the craftsmanship that makes these jeans a must-have.